Ocean playground, earthly paradise... Paradise for anyone who enjoys being around, in or under the water, and sub tropical kingdom of the giant kauri tree. With a maximum width of 50 miles/ 80 km, nowhere in the Northland is far from the sea - and its activities associated with the seas that are its main attraction. See The Bay of Islands - Northland

THE BAY OF ISLANDS

The main visitor center for the Bay of Islands is Paihia, which has a wide range of accommodation and some excellent seafood restaurants. It is a good starting-out point for cruises and sightseeing trips, boat rentals, charters and diving excursions, sailing, jet- boating and dolphin watching. Within walking distance of Paihia is Waitangi, perhaps the most historically important location in New Zealand. It was here that the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840 by Maori chiefs and representatives of the British Crown. The "Treaty House," home of the then British Resident, in front of which the Treaty was signed, is a focal point of the reserve, along with the Maori meeting house with carvings representing many different tribes, and a 120-foot, 150 man war canoe, launched each Waitangi Day (February 6), New Zealand's national day.

A trip through history

One of the oldest towns in New Zealand, and for a short time capital of the country, Russell is a 20 minute ferry ride across the bay from Paihia. In the early nineteenth century Russell earned the nickname, hell-hole of the south-west Pacific, for the antics of its swashbuckling sailors and traders. Many of the buildings from this era have been retained and lend the waterfront a charming colonial atmosphere. About 14 miles/ 23 km to the north of Paihia is picturesque Kerikeri on the northern extremity of the bay, set amid citrus and kiwifruit orchards. It's a flourishing center for arts and crafts people, particularly potters and weavers, whose small galleries and studios make for interesting shopping. On the Kerikeri inlet stand a few of New Zealand's oldest buildings: the Kemp House, built in 1821, the Stone Store, completed in 1835, and St. James Church, built in 1878. Nearby, Rewa's Village will give you an idea of what a pre-European Maori unfortified village looked like.

The Bay's marine activities

A longtime favorite attraction with visitors is a cruise in the bay, surely one of the most beautiful and interesting marine sightseeing trips anywhere. As well as an amazing variety of islands, visitors will see a wealth of bird life, seals, dolphins, or perhaps even a whale. The diving store at Paihia can provide information on diving sites along with catering for divers'needs, including air filling and gear rentals, but don't forget your diver's certification card. Overseas, the Bay of Islands is possibly best known as a big-game fishing center, where beyond the sheltered waters of the bay some of the largest specimens of striped marlin in the world are caught. Fishing tournaments are held from January through April.

Cruises and excursions

A unique way to enjoy a cruise on the bay is on the tall sailing ship R Tucker Thompson, typical of the schooners that plied the Pacific 100 years ago. You can get handson experience by helping sail, or just relax and dream of bygone days. In an area where there are so many historical associations, even the main launch operator, Fullers, has become part of the local history Of the area, and its "Cream Trip," originally run to service the outlying farms around the bay, is renowned far and wide, On t is 5 1/2-hour cruise among the 150 islands, each distinctly different from its neighbor, you will learn something of the area's history. Departing from both Paihia and Russell, another cruise almost as well known is the Cape Brett/ Hole-in-the-Rock half-day trip to the outer reaches of the bay. Excursions up Ninety-Mile Beach to Cape Reinga and to the majestic kauri forests are musts.

How to get there:

The Bay of islands is about 150 miles/240 km from Auckland, an easy half day's drive via Whangarei, the regional center, or if you prefer, a 45-minute flight or a coach tour from Auckland that run several times daily. For those with limited time, or who prefer not to drive, day tours and longer also depart from Auckland. Hotel and motel accommodation is available at Paihia and Russell.

NORTHLAND

Travel north of downtown Auckland, over the bridge, along Highway 1 for 71 miles/115 km and you reach the Brynderwyr Hills, the southern boundary for this region. At the foot of the hill you may choose to go up High way 12, through Dargaville and the kauri forests, or continue or for another 35 miles/ 56km to Whangarei. A city of 44,000 and the main commercial and administrative center for the region, Whangarei has a wide range of accommodation and restaurants, excellent craft shops, attractive gardens and the famous Clapham Clock Museum with one of the largest collection of timepieces in the world.

Crystal clear waters

A little to the north is Tutukaka, a notable deep-sea and big-game fishing base with a season extending from December to May. Offshore, the crystal clear waters of the Poor Knights Islands Marine Reserve are popular diving spots with an amazing range of fish, including many tropical species. These waters were nominated by Jacques Cousteau as one of the top five diving locations in the world.

How to get there:

Coach lines run several daily services from Auckland to Whangarei. Air services fly Auckland to Whangarei daily. From Paihia to Whangarei is about 40 miles/ 70 km.

The Kauri Coast

This area is reached by turning off Highway 1 onto Highway 12 at the foot of the Brynclerwyn Hills. About 16 miles/25 km along this road you reach the small settlement of Matakohe, which has an interesting museum containing relics of the area's kauri milling and kauri gum-digging pioneers. The main town of the area is Dargaville on the Wairoa River.

Lord of the forest

The region's native forests contain some of the few remaining stands of giant native kauri trees in the country. Short, easy walks from the road allow you to view some of the largest trees in the world. The largest specimens are in Waipoua Forest where the greatest of all, Tane Mahuta, "Lord of the Forest," stands nearly 170 ft/ 52 m tall, and is over 1,200 years old. Around 19 miles/ 30 km north of the kauri forests brings you to the deeply indented Hokianga Harbor, an area of giant sandhills and secluded bays. At Opononi Beach, see the statue of Opo, the dolphin which befriended the locals 40 years ago and made the village famous. About 10 miles/ 17 km further on look for the Rawene turn-off, as a car ferry from this town, across the harbor to Kohukohu, provides a short-cut as you're going further north.

Ninety Mile Beach to Cape Reinga

It's a day's return trip from Paihia or Kaitaia to the very northern-most tip of the North Island, Cape Reinga, where a lone pohutukawa tree on the farthest tip of land marks a sacred spot for Maori: the legendary leaping-off place for the spirits of the dead on their homeward journey to Hawaiki. From here, Ninety Mile Beach sweeps down the west coast of the peninsula forming a natural 90 km/ 60 miles highway for tour buses on their return beach bus trip. This route is not recommended for cars, as insurance does not cover travel on the beach. For an alternative route to Paihia, turn down Highway 1 at Awanui and you'll reach Kaitaia. At Fairburn, about 15 km/10 miles down a side road, there is a "nocturnal park" which allows visitors to view glow~worms and kiwis during the day and in the evening. Continuing south down Highway 1, over the scenic Mangamuka hills, there's a grove of majestic giant kauri trees in the Omahuta Forest Sanctuary.

Getting Around

The Bay of Islands is about 150 miles/240 kms from Auckland - an easy half day's drive via Whangarei, the regional centre, or if you prefer, a 45 minute flight on Mount Cook Airline. Coaches also run from Auckland daily or you can rent a Campervan, minivan or sedan.